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glen Charter Member

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Posted: Sat Feb 23rd, 2008 06:03 pm |
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Where do I start....at the beginning I guess. This is our fourth trip to Culebra and it still has the power to amaze me!
We arrived in San Juan (Luis Munez airport) at 11pm. We stayed at the airport hotel which was adequate for our needs (small clean rooms..we were only there for a few hours sleep). We did want a snack and drink before turning in but the bar/restaurant was closed)
We had an 8:30am flight out of Isla Grande on Flamenco air ($100 per person round trip) so we took a cab from Luis Munez (16 dollar 15 minute ride) to Isla Grande. The flight was on time and it was smooth from take off through landing. We usually have flown Isla Nena from the main airport but had problems scheduling with them and have since learned they are not reliable when it come to flying into Culebra. Also, learned that Flamenco is the local airline out of Culebra and decided we should support the local economy. The view still amazes me and it is awesome. Our pilots were accommodating and very nice.
When we arrived we picked up our luggage and walked across the street to Jerry's Jeeps(742-0587 or 0526) We have always rented from him so I cannot compare him to other car rentals on the island. We enjoy his talk about the island as he keeps us up on all the changes and of course his map is always helpful. He is a really nice guy and will help you with pretty much anything he can.
We were staying with friends in Barrio Clark..at Casa Jardin. I understand they rent it out when friends are not staying with them. it is a two bedroom, two bath apartment with a kitchen sitting area. It is air conditioned and has hot water. Bob and Joann have a lovely back yard garden and we enjoy having our morning coffee and after beach drinks there. The kitchen is stocked so that you can prepare meals if you so desire and there is a barbecue grill there as well. It is very comfortable and very clean. Since it is in the Barrio it is not very quiet. For us that is ok because we like to be close to town as we enjoy walking to dinner and to town. The roosters are part of the island flavor and have gotten so use to them that sometime we don't even hear them. This year it was a bit more noisy as sewers are being put in and the roads are torn up. The work begins early in the morning. Again,,not a problem for us.
After we settled in we went to the grocery store for water, snacks, etc. We shopped at the larger grocery store in town, Superette Mayra. You will find pretty much all you need there. Produce can be purchased on Friday from the fruit/veg. truck located near the Panadaria. We then went to Comado Milka to purchase a case of beer (around 30 dollars) and then over to El Eden to purchase a bottle of Absolute Citron Vodka. El Eden has a very nice wine selection with reasonable prices. The liquor was a bit more expensive than home but not enough to make it worth weighing your luggage down. Also, it contributes to the local economy.
Our first day we spend at Flamenco Beach (beautiful) just to relax. Lots of changes there since our last visit. There is now a young man who rents lounge chair($7/per day) and umbrellas($10/day). His prices reduce after 1PM. There are also Kiosks that sell pinchos (pork, chicken and shark) for $2.50. They are excellent. You can purchase cold drinks, soda, fruit drinks and also pina coladas. The sign says they pina coladas are $2 make sure you go to the lady that has that sign. I ordered one thinking they were the same booth and mine was $4. The $2 is slightly smaller but not much. There is also a place called Tent City there that rents camping and snorkeling equipment. I did notice there are some life guard stands but did not see any lifeguards while we were there. Presently they are building structures near the parking lot to house permanent kiosks. Flush toilets's are also a welcome addition at Flamenco.
Other beaches we visited were;
Carlos Rosairo..we spent three days there. It is a short hike (20 min) from the parking lot at Flamenco Beach. A beautiful view as you get to the peak of the mountain. The snorkeling here is outstanding. Great coral formations to the left as you are looking at the beach. Not lots of shade so if you are planning on spending the day..bring something for shelter. We just had tarps from the dollar store. Worked great. All kinds of fish here. Lots of schools, saw huge Porcupine fish, lots of trumpet fish and others but cannot remember which ones we saw where. You won't be disappointed.
Tamarindo..short drive up hill just before Flamenco. Also, great snorkeling, saw a sting ray, and we spent the day there swimming as well. It is a smaller area and very quiet. Not many people there at all. Good place to watch sunsets. We use to go for drinks at Tamarindo where there was a nice bar to watch the sunset. That is no longer open.
Zoni..we spent two days here. This is very quiet and beautiful. In the past we had to hike down to it but you can now drive to a small parking area. Very few people at any time. The swimming was wonderful. The guys found some small coconuts and used them to play Bocce Ball..What a hoot! No snorkeling here.
Melones..another great snorkel area..you will see lots of variations. We did not see the moray eel but our friends did. We did not stay there to swim..not much of a beach area.
Playa Soldado...we spend a good portion of the day here. We enjoyed the snorkeling and we did swim..(used water socks because there are some rocks). We parked at the top and walked down into the beach area. You can drive down but there are lots of ruts(big) in the road and thorny things that can puncture your tire. We chose to spare Jerry's jeep .
Luis Pena..We took a water taxi..Guilin(314-6163). His boat is very nice and fast. He is a very pleasant man and speaks English well. The cost was $35 per person. Originally we had planned to sea kayaks over to the island(about a 50 min. trip), but everyday that I phoned the gentleman (Jim from Barbara Rosas) that rents the kayaks ,I received a recording that he was not accepting calls. Not sure what that was about but in any event just another island thing and I am ok with that. This is a beautiful little island and the snorkeling was excellent. We had a perfect day in terms of being very sunny and not much wind. This made it probably the clearest snorkeling of the week. We saw star fish here which I hadn't seen on previous snorkels on the island. I know we saw barracuda but not sure if it was here or not. We spent the entire day here and I would go again.
Culabrita..while we did not go here this time I would be remiss in not raving about this island. A day at Tortuga is very relaxing, but more than that it is worth the trip to snorkel in the baths. It is like snorkeling in a fish tank. Also, you can hike to the light house which again has a wonderful view. No longer are you able to go into the light house. It has structural damage and it is not safe to do so. You must take a water taxi and i belive the cost is around $45 for the day.
Brava..a hike into this beach is worth it. It is not a difficult hike at all. There is no snorkeling here that I know of. Also, you must be careful when swimming as there are at times riptides. We have gone in the water here but did not venture out very far.
Reseca..a bit harder hike but again beautiful. Caution when swimming as well here.
Both Reseca and Brava are beaches where the turtles nest.
Restaurants:
El Caobo..located in Barrio Clark (I still call it Tina's). very small eating area but food was decent local fare. We had pork and it was tasty other friends had grouper and raved about it. There is a bar here as well.
Barbara Rosas..located in the Barrio as well..all tables are outside on a patio..you can bring your own beer, wine etc. She does provide wine glasses. This is basically a one woman operation..Barbara takes the orders, cooks the orders and calls your name to come pick up your order. It does get busy so plan to relax and enjoy the evening. The crab cakes are very good. We had King Fish, fish and chips, She Crab soup, Pumpkin soup, fish and chips and our friend that doesn't eat fish ordered one of the Parmesan dishes. Everything was very tasty.
El Batey..one of our favorites..true local cuisine..excellent tostones and rice and bean. The guys ordered the stuffed pork chops both evenings..they were tasty. I had the mahi mahi and whatever spices they used in preparation it was delicious. The chicken dishes were as good. On the American side they have the best burgers on the island and I can probably say one of the best burgers I had anywhere. The people are so friendly and we meet a few who I plan to keep in touch with.
Susies...Susie is a local woman who went to Johnson and Wales in the state for Culinary Arts. She just opened about a week before we got there. We had a very good meal here. My husband had Sea Bass and I had Mahi Mahi. The island mash, a mixture of a few root veggies, was excellent. I have been researching for a recipe to try at home..no luck. There is no liquor here so if you want a glass of wine with dinner you are able to bring it. No corking fee.
El Eden.. we had dinner here on Valentines day so we did make a reservation. The food was excellent. I had Sea Bass, the other three in our group had the Churrosco. I have to say our meal was outstanding. A bit more pricey than some of the other places but worth it. The menu changes each week which is kind of fun if you are there for an extended stay. The bar is well stocked and there is a nice wine selection.We purchased an entire bottle and they charged a corking fee which was unusual since we purchased the wine from them. Again..not a problem..just an observation. The bread there is excellent and they do serve lunch.
Pan Deli..breakfast here every morning. The breakfast sandwiches are very good. I love the bread. One morning had french toast which was also very good..I like mine with thick bread and that is what they use. We also purchased lunch sandwiches to take the beach one day..very good. They do sell wine there if you need a bottle and don't want to drive to El Eden. It is Chilen wine and very good..reasonable prices about 10 dollars.
We tried the Panadaria because we always enjoyed their breakfast sandwiches but when we went they were not making any on those days so we just gave up.
We spent one morning going to the local shops. I purchased some hot sauce from MJ/island woman at her cart on the bridge. She is a very nice woman and will answer any questions you might have. I love her philosophy..open some days closed others. Know that there is siesta time there and some shops close for a bit in the afternoon. I love it! We should all take a lesson from them. There are shops that sell local art and jewelry and of course tshirts etc. Everyone was very friendly.
We attended a baseball game. We look forward to them and if you get a chance to go please do. (the practice games aren't as much fun). The announcers at the game are so funny. We enjoyed chatting and dancing with the local people there. It is attended mostly by locals though there were some other tourists there. My new mantra that I have taken from the game is Mewaylo (spelling) pronounce may way lo meaning "I can feel it". I plan on using it with my sixth grade students when I know they can pull a super grade on their next exam.
We purchased tickets for Abby's fund raiser. It was a wonderful evening held at Dingy Dock. The food was prepared by the families of the students who attend her bilingual school. Everyone was friendly and we felt so welcomed. I had wanted to spend a morning at her school but never had time to arrange with Abby. I hope next time it will be possible to volunteer a morning there.
One evening we spent at Dingy Dock when they had their Karaoke night. What fun. Most of the songs were upbeat and sung in Spanish(imagine that) and the singers were excellent. My Spanish being sparse I sang an English song..I don't know if I seemed like I was struggling but a nice young man came beside me and started singing with me..thanks..but on the upside...when we were at the airport leaving someone in the airport started singing the song I sang that night...so I guess I left Culebra a celebrity
We were scheduled to leave Culebra on a 7am flight but found out there was a possible 11am flight to Isla Grande. Went to the airport a few days before we were to leave and Joel helped us change our flight. He was wonderful and made it very easy. He told us to show up by 11am and if everyone was there we would leave then. Well we were there at 10:15 and taking off by 10:30.. This is island schedule so report for your scheduled flight at least one hour before. There were only four of us on that flight. The pilot apologized for no in flight movie. I told him he had the best movie of any flight I have flown. The view from the airplane in awesome!
This island has changed some in the last ten years but has maintained its small island character. It is a very friendly island and safe as well. I would say that if you are looking for a relaxing, quiet vacation...nice beaches...simple night life..great snorkeling...beautiful beaches this is the place for you. If you want five star pampering then you should stick with all inclusive resorts.
Thanks again for a wonderful vacation...Lots of memories for sure.
Attachment: view culebra.jpg (Downloaded 142 times)
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bayberry Charter Member

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Posted: Sat Feb 23rd, 2008 08:15 pm |
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| Wow -- This is one "right on" report! You did miss a couple of great watering holes, but there are still only 7 days in a week last I knew. Thank you for sharing, and for providing a visitor's eye view that reinforces us regulars' take on our little island.
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admin Administrator

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Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 12:27 am |
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Thanks Glen for a GREAT report -- like Bayberry mentioned, you missed a few spots, so you'll have to come back soon to experince them!!!
And maybe Jim was so busy he had the kayaks all rented......so next time, maybe make arrangements ahead of time....
____________________ Life is short. Break the rules, Forgive quickly, Love truly, Laugh uncontrollably,
and never regret anything that made you smile!
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Island Woman MJ Island Expert

| Joined: | Mon Dec 25th, 2006 |
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Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 11:07 am |
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What a complete report! I feel like I went on your holiday with you! Thanks.
____________________ Salva lo que queda! Save What's Left!
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glen Charter Member

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Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 12:07 pm |
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I did want to include one other change on the island since my last visit and that is the building of the new shcool. It is an awesome building and I just love the colors chosen.
We had been to Dingy Dock and Mamacitas(we had good meals there) in the past for dinner so tried some other places. The only place we had wanted to try that we did not was Juanita Bananas.
Also, the food prepared for Abby's fund raiser was excellent.
Attachment: fiveatdingydock.jpg (Downloaded 124 times)
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admin Administrator

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Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 12:12 pm |
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great picture!!! post more if you have them!!!
so glad you got to Abbie's school fundraiser -- always a great time! Don't miss Juanita Bananas next time -- it's a culinary delight and always a very special evening.
____________________ Life is short. Break the rules, Forgive quickly, Love truly, Laugh uncontrollably,
and never regret anything that made you smile!
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glen Charter Member

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Posted: Tue Feb 26th, 2008 12:33 pm |
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| Here is a picture of the new school. Attachment: 019_16A.JPG (Downloaded 101 times)
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Jim Forum Expert

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Posted: Fri Mar 21st, 2008 11:58 am |
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Wow what a report! What about the old school what was your
impression of that? And the piña colada stand, the one on the
left or the one on the right? well that is the old position now
they moved in front of the check-in shack and greenhouse
and I think the stands are reversed, so if you answer could
you mention if its in the original position or latter and I will
try to interpret and get a picture of her and post it.
Also you mentioned the noise in the barrio at Bob and JoAnn's
(usually quiet) was it really bad or just a little noisy. I think
you were the one that wrote that you were worried about
the noise from the new school, I answered. Remember?
How was the noise from the school specifically?
Also you mentioned kayaks, that's me, sorry I didn't get your
calls or call you back. If you came during the Christmas Winds
(or Winter Winds) season, I don't get much Kayaking rentals
because we are very weather sensitive, this year was particularly
horrible. Sometimes I get calls simply inquiring for kayaks for
that day and I don't call back or by the time I call back people
go on to do something else. I;m going to try to have a message
at least relating to the conditions so you have some idea as to
my criteria. This is a common rating system for Kayak weaather'
condition factoring.
Sea Conditions Rating System (SCRS)
Factor Computation Method Maximum Points Score
1-Water Temperature 1 point for each degree below 72F 40 ____
2-Wind Speed 1 point per mph of wind speed 50+ ____
3-Wave Height 2 points per vertical wave foot 40+ ____
4-Swim Distance to Safety 1 point per 100 meters 20 ____
5-Breaking Waves 30 points if waves are breaking 30 ____
6-Rock Garden 20 points if paddling in rocks 20 ____
7-Sea Cave 20 points if entering sea caves 20 ____
8-Night 20 points if it is night 20 ____
9-Fog Up to 20 points if fog is dense 20 ____
10-Miscellaneous 10 points or more for other danger 10+ ____
TOTAL POINTS = ______
Divide total points by 20 to obtain CLASS LEVEL = ______
Scoring Directions: Scope out the sea using instruments or
conservative estimates, and rate each of the 10 factors.
Add scores and divide the sum by 20. Scores up to 1.9 are
Class I--easy to moderate difficulty, danger, and skills
required; Class II (2.0 to 2.9)--intermediate difficulty,
danger, and skills required; Class III (3.0 to 3.9)--advanced
difficulty, danger, and skills (e.g., a reliable roll and
self-rescues a must); Class IV (4.0 to 4.9)--extreme
conditions, advanced techniques required, loss of life
possible; Class V (5.0 to 5.9)--very extreme, life threatening
conditions ; Class VI (6.0+)--nearly impossible conditions,
suitable only for a team of experts, loss of life probable in a
mishap.
But I don't use it, Tide is less than 12 inches, not that much
of a factor and the Island configuration breaks up the normal
fetch associated with open water. Wind (generally) is everything,
Sub ten = weak looking beginners; 10-15 = average fit to
intermediate esperience; 15 - 20 = high level experience or aerobic
trained athlete. Over 20, you got to have ACA certification,
steely eyes. chiseled body, a great line of bullshit and a note from
your mother.
I'll probably still say no.
Thanks for the report, if you go somewhere else (hope not) could
you post the report here also, I don't like leaving Culebra and
if I did I would want to be sure that I avoided the pitfalls and
bad experience that someone else had, plus knowing what to
expect may take the surprise and "I discovered" out of it but it
still is a must so you don't miss anything. Believe me, I know!
For example, in 1976 we went to Bermuda and after we
returned home found out they had a great marine and dolphin
show close to the hotel we were staying, boy were we pissed.
Actually we discovered it the day we were leaving by "accident"
Yes accident, we were involved in a minor accident with a worker
from the show.
It's a real funny story, but this post already is way too long, so
I'll give the short version. We were walking down a blacktop
curving lane (the cars drive on the opposite side there_
Sorry Barbara just got up and said ENOUGH, she's right, I'll
try to continue my story some other time.
Here's a checklist Barbara and I got from the internet
we were going to use it but at least we share!
Pack a copy of “Bon Voyage But…” and a copy of the Country
Travel Report for your destination.
Carry a passport that is valid well beyond the date of your
anticipated return ; keep a copy of the identification page
separate from the original.
Leave copies of your passport identification page, itinerary
and insurance policy with friends or family.
Obtain any required visas well in advance.
Arrange for health and travel insurance.
Plan your itinerary and budget.
Anticipate financial needs: local currency, traveller’s
cheques, departure tax.
Take care of health needs: vaccinations, prescriptions,
medical certificates, supplies, extra eyeglasses.
Check whether dual citizenship is an issue for you.
If travelling with children, carry documentation proving
your right to accompany them (consent letter, court order).
Register on-line with the government office abroad.
Obtain an International Driving Permit, if required.
Prepare for your flight by carefully attending to luggage,
documentation and airport security.
While abroad, keep receipts for purchases and make special
arrangements for food, plants and animals brought back.
____________________ "The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness." -- John Kenneth Galbraith
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Jim Forum Expert

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Posted: Fri Mar 21st, 2008 12:04 pm |
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This is crazy but I originally started to post about
your school picture, great shot, perfect composition,
can I use it, If I do I'll of course credit you. Send it to
theculebracalendar@yahoo.com
____________________ "The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness." -- John Kenneth Galbraith
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glen Charter Member

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Posted: Fri Mar 21st, 2008 12:17 pm |
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Jim,
We purchased the pina colada from the lady that was on the left closest to the pinchos.
Also, I had seen the old school when we were there in the past. No comparison. We did meet some of the high school kids who attend there one morning at breakfast. I asked them why they weren't at school and they said their teacher was not there and it is difficult to get substitutes. The light bulb went off and told my husband maybe we could move to culebra and I could substitute teach! Anyway...the students were very nice and we enjoyed speaking with them.
Not to worry about the Kayack rental. We took the water taxi and when we came back the waves were fairly high so it probably was not a safe day to kayack anyway.
It was not noisy at Casa Jardin....and no noise from the school at all. As I said only one morning extremely loud when a large back hoe or something like it was moved from one area of work to another. We are early risers anyway and we really do enjoy the location of Casa Jardin. I only mention the noise factor because some people really want peace and quiet and if that is the case then they should rent somewhere away from town.
Forgot to mention the reason we didn't get to eat at Heather's this time as she was away and it was closed. It is very good and should give it a try.
ps..I will send you the picture of the school..no credit necessary I am happy to share it with whomever would like to use it.
Last edited on Fri Mar 21st, 2008 12:20 pm by glen
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glen Charter Member

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Posted: Wed Mar 26th, 2008 04:55 pm |
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Jim,
Did you get the picture I emailed to you...the one you requested about the school?
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Jim Forum Expert

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Posted: Wed Mar 26th, 2008 09:49 pm |
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Sorry I thought I emailed you thanks
Thanks again!
Jim
There is a story about an interesting tour at the
new school, I don't know yet if this picture will be
selected for this article, but it might/
____________________ "The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness." -- John Kenneth Galbraith
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